Crisp mountain air streams through dried leaves of gold. The gentle rattle as they graze each other is the only sound heard here. An ocher glow bathes the mossy forest floor in heavenly light. Damp earth emits a intoxicating smell. Autumn has arrived in the high reaches of this place, a place that only one word is needed to describe. Paradise.
Every year my wife and I travel to road trip across the United States to explore regions that are alien compared to the sights and sounds of home in the Northeast. This trip begins like every other. Packing clothes, cleaning camera gear and loading enough snacks and water to last more than the 2 weeks we’ll be gone. I plan these adventures long in advance, mostly years ahead of actually going on them. Spending hours researching and making maps to the point of obsession. We are both fortunate enough to have jobs that allow us to take the time off and save for each trip. So as we say goodbye to our two little mischievous cats we head out on this years journey.
This trip brings us through the winding roads of New York, through the vast expanse of corn in the Mid West and to the destination we have planned for this time. After 36 hours of driving in a little over 2 days we see them. The soaring peaks of the mountains in a haze on the horizon. With excitement in our hearts we finally make it to the little cabin at 7500’ we will be staying in for the next few days. Its not much, but we don’t require much. The whole point of these trips is to disconnect as much as we can from modern life. Not glued to a cell phone or entranced in the daily grind of work, eat, sleep, repeat. The cabin consists of about 180 square feet. A tiny bathroom, a bed and a small table are all we need. The little TV affixed to the wall is nice for winding down for the night while we watch Food Network. These trips have us eating snacks and dehydrated camping meals to save money and frustration trying to find somewhere to eat so the sight of real food on TV helps us cope with what we have.
That evening we set out down the road to the park right down the street to photograph sunset. A massive field lies at the bottom of a valley surrounded by immense mountains on all sides. The quiet river that runs through here gives life and water to the wildlife and flora that live here. A forest of coniferous trees create a natural fence around the field. The skies are clear of clouds which means a sunset is out of the question tonight. So we found a picnic table to set up our tripods and cameras. I used my 100-400mm lens to trying picking out small scenes and found 3 yellow aspens sitting among a vast forest of pines. The rebellious nature of them hits home to my past teenage self wanting to rebel against the norm while I listen to punk music.
A rebellious aspen breaks the conformity of the confers around it.
On the return walk to the car we see this areas iconic creature. With antlers tall and pointed and thick brown and tan fur he appears like a lone wanderer through a western town. A bull elk in search of mates walks near our car so we stop and give him the recommended 25 yards of space as to not annoy him. Its rutting season which means all the males are not in the best mood. We watched as he slowly walked into the tree line and stop. Turning his head to face us he let loose the eerie cry that we had only heard in movies. A sad yet beautiful screech bellowed as he called out to potential females. After that he crested the hill and walked out of sight leaving only another cry as evidence of his presence. We took that as a “welcome” and got back in the car and headed back to the cabin. When we got back a large hind foot print of a black bear was seven feet from our door which told us two things. We missed the neighbor and this was a much more wild place compared to home.
We woke up early the next morning to the sound of the bird call alarm on my phone in hopes of taking a beautiful sunrise. Driving up the steep mountain pass we arrived at the parking lot and made our way to the spot I found on Google Maps months beforehand. Stars filled the sky which meant one thing. No colorful sunrise today. Though with the scene before us it didn’t really matter if there were clouds or not because this was worth shooting anyways.
A small path leads towards mystery and wilderness.
At 9000’ in elevation the thin air was beginning to take a slight toll on our breathing so we headed back into town after exploring the area a little more. A small general store sat just a short ways from the cabin so we picked up some cheese and bagels to make some impromptu sandwiches. Better than nothing when all you’ve had for 4 days is pop tarts, jerky and dehydrated beef stew. Afterwards my wife and I took a nap. Well she did at least. Thanks to a lack of forethought I forgot that going from 3000’ to 9000’ in less than twenty four hours means that what I was starting to feel was altitude sickness. As my wife lay asleep next to me the room started spinning and wobbling. I suffer from vertigo often so thats nothing new but this was much more intense. Waves of nausea and lightheadedness washed over me as my heart pounded hard and fast in my chest. My throat felt tight and I was having difficulty breathing. Like the panic attacks I used to suffer from but much worse and much longer. After taking a Dramamine and debating with myself if we should drive to lower elevation to try to alleviate the symptoms they eventually got better.
I wasn’t about to let minor altitude sickness stop our trip so we spent the rest of the afternoon taking it easy before going to a nearby lake to try for sunset photos. A cloudless sky still plagued the area so we headed down a trail toward some aspens to shoot some smaller scenes of the changing foliage before heading back to the little cabin for some dehydrated chicken fajita bowl.
Twin leaves cling together before their time to fall away.
Orange leaves wrap around their trees trunk.
The next and last morning here we braved returning to 9000’ and made it to the parking lot in the total darkness that even our flashlights struggle to pierce. As we slowly made our way up the sloped lot gasping for air from each step feeling like twenty we made it to the trail. I’m a worry wart when it comes to being in a place at night knowing that large murder mitten having mountain lions could be laying it wait for lone hikers such as ourselves. You have a better chance of being struck by lightning than being dragged away or even seeing one of these beasts but still I annoy my wife with my constant vigilance. We set up on the edge of the calm quiet lake and noticed we didn’t see any stars but there was a faint glow behind the tree line on the horizon. That means a good sunrise is possible so we sat in the dark with our backs to whatever monsters hid in the trees and waited. A peaceful glow lit the blanket of clouds that lay just above the mountain peak reflected in the mirror of the lake and I shot this image that I was satisfied with for our last morning here.
Mirror like reflections show the quiet mountain landscape.
As we walked back to the car I overheard a ranger telling a woman about a moose that likes to take a morning dip in the lake we visited the night before so we went straight there in hopes to catch a glimpse of the giant. As our luck would have it, he wasn’t there. As crowds began to form already I spotted a small trail leading away from the noise of other visitors so we retreated to the waiting aspens . Not long into the hike we heard that familiar screech we heard two days ago and we stopped. Suddenly a herd of female elk came over the hill in front of us followed quickly by a male trying to catch up to them. We immediately turned around and carefully made our way back down the trail to give them plenty of space and privacy. From a distance we watched as the male made his way to each female like a desperate guy in a bar trying to hit on the women who have no interest. His growing frustration was evident as we watching him bugle and bellow his warm visible breath into the cold morning air. Swirling around in the glowing yellow light produced by the backlit yellow leaves overhead. After taking a couple photos we chose to leave them to their business and leave the park for out next destination of the trip.
A female elk nibbles on grass beneath a glowing canopy.
We drove for hours through winding mountain roads, past rivers and more aspens than we could imagine. All a vibrant yellow or orange these trees are why we came halfway across the country. Time didn’t allow for stopping at these groups of trees as we had a ways to the next place. Stopping at a rest stop beneath towering cliffs along the highway we spotted some binoculars used for looking at local bighorn sheep on the cliff sides. No sheep were out while we were there so we purchased a small stuff animal of one instead as a consolation prize. After driving more through valleys and open plains with mountains all around we checked into the hotel and took a brief rest before heading to our sunset spot. The spot has become popular thanks to people sharing the location on social media so now they require reservations. Months before I sat at my computer for the exact moment they went on sale and managed to get them before they quickly sold out minutes later. With high hopes of shooting this beautiful scene we were met with a rain storm that had moved in and covered the mountains in a dense fog and cloud. This wasn’t going to happen tonight. So with frustration we walked the paths around the lakeside and looked for some nice trees to shoot. As I was walking along a small group of deer appeared in front of me like ghosts and I froze. Wanting to give them their space I waited for them to move into the trees before setting up my camera to take a quick photo of them. I found my wife with her camera pointed up into a tree and looked at the back of her camera. A nice little composition that I waited to steal from her while she walked to another spot close by. From there we went back to the hotel to take shelter from the incoming rain. I lay awake frustrated at the bad weather and wondered why did we bother coming.
Spotted by the lookout as her friends inspect an itchy spot.
100% original non stolen composition…
Rain tattered the window of our hotel all night and into the morning when we got up. The sunrise wasn’t in the picture so we just decided to skip it and continue on our journey. Driving along more mountain roads with great views the rain followed us and chased us away each time we thought we out ran it. A looming mountain view, aspens in a cross hatch fence and an iconic view only lasted a few minutes before the loud cracks of thunder had us running back to the car and continuing on.
Finally after a few hours the rain went away as we were coming up to the road for the next park. A long extremely bumpy dirt road led us through flat open desolation until a small ranger station appeared ahead. A single trail next to a campsite was where we got out to hike. Passing by ground squirrels, strange birds and tiny cacti we reached the edge of an intimidating canyon. Nothing but a ratty old waist high fence stood between you and a 2700’ drop to the river below. My wife walked right up to it of course as I tried to fight my vertigo before getting the nerve to join her. A canyon that rivals the Grand Canyon, this fascinating place was carved over 2 and a half million years by the very river we saw far below the cliff edge. The walls featuring light colored lines in them like veiny rivers that stream along. The sun peaking out behind the clouds to gently kiss them in a warm light after the cold raw morning we just had.
White veins creep along the dark rocky canyon.
Saying goodbye to the vastly different area from the prior days we continued on to our sunset spot for the night. Only we weren’t alone when we arrived. The rainy fog had returned covering the whole scene in thick pillowy annoyance. Defeated we drove back to our next hotel. I spotted on the way a soft snowy peak on the roadside that rivaled a Bob Ross painting and managed to shoot this image.
A moody mountain sits in a blanket of clouds.
Stopping at the super market to pick up some comfort food. We drowned our sorrows in a cinnamon walnut danish before heading to bed. Skipping again the scene we tried last night due to the lingering fog I decided to lean into the bad weather and search for some trees that were visible though the morning mist. I got out while my wife did her make up and found a skeletal tree peeking out through the gloom and set up my tripod next to some large branches on the ground. After shooting for a few minutes my wife got out to join me and immediately blurted out “those are some legs”. I replied with a confused “uh thanks?”. Then I looked down at what she was staring at next to my feet. The branches I stood next to finally made their appearance strange. Branches don’t typically have fur, or hooves. These branches were severed elk legs. Just two elk legs lay on the gorund, no blood or signs of a struggle from a predator. Just the legs and my tripod next to them. I told my wife “you wanted breakfast didnt you?” which produced her favorite bird.
The skeletal remains of a tree peaks through the fog.
After leaving behind the gloom and visceral body parts behind we took a turn onto a dirt road that we were excited to visit. Meandering along open field the road passes ranches with old zig zag style wooden fences before creeping along into the woods. The steep and uneven road is not for the faint of heart or those with low clearance vehicles. Thankfully I plan every detail and rented an SUV with high clearance because of this road. As we left behind the loud sounds of the mountain bypass behind us we traveled on slowly and carefully down the steep hair pin turns until we reached the one of few parking spots. Surrounded by 14,000’ mountain peaks we breathed in the cool mountain air, finally used to the elevation. Nothing could be more beautiful in this area except the company I had with me. So we slowly walked up the road to the reason for stopping here. The famous aspen groves that are well known to this mountain pass. With yellow leaves quietly rustling above thick papery white trunks the magical light seeping into the shrubs and mossy forest floor was like walking into Middle Earth in the lands of the elves of Rivendell. So quiet that every foot step echoes through the dense forest. Keeping to the “Leave No Trace” principals we took photos from the roadside with longer lenses as to not disturb the vegetation. No photo is worth destroying the environment for. After about an hour of searching and shooting a sound was made that echoed around the silent grove. A sound we had never heard before, like a small child screaming but more primal, guttural and animal like. Having heard bears, coyotes, fishers, bobcats and foxes many times back home. We knew this noise was something big and something less than 300 yards away over the ridge line in front of us. With that we made a safe retreat back to the car with my hand on my bear spray ready for whatever might follow us. Before this I managed to shoot these couple images. Next we went into the perfect mountain town at the base of the mountain.
A scene out of Middle Earth hides among the mountain slopes.
A pine tree standing proud in a stand of aspens.
This little town that you imagine when you think of a mountain town is exactly what this looked like. Tightly packed homes and shops, lodgings for the nearby ski areas, and enormous mountains all around. We explored the town after checking in and found a little beaver pond and riverside trail to walk along as we enjoyed the afternoon together deciding to just take a breather from photography for the rest of the day. Overcast clouds had moved in and more rain and light snow was coming so we stopped by the local bakery and got way more goods than we should have and ate ourselves into a food coma in the hotel room. The next day was more of the same, exploring the town some more and relaxing in the hotel while the rain made everything dreary and cold. While bored I went on YouTube to investigate what that animal was that we heard the day before. Turns out I wasn’t being over paranoid days before and it was in fact a mountain lion cry.
As we left the little mountain town we headed to a very popular spot known for its curved aspen trees. We waited for the sun to rise a little as we waited in the dark before driving on this treacherous mountain pass since I was nervous about driving on it to begin with. Once it was light enough we drove up the steep narrow dirt pass until we reached a spot in the road I wasn’t about to risk breaking the car over and parked off to the side leaving enough room for anyone else who wanted to brave it. Walking up the steep road the rest of the way was tough as the thin air was still effecting us. We reached the stand of aspens and were happy to find we had the place to ourselves. Just before the sun came over the mountainside a few more people showed up and then a photo workshop. These trees are famous for a reason but that mixed with social media means a lot more foot traffic. More foot traffic means damage to the area with people being irresponsible and standing on the trees, trampling the ground beneath them, carving names into them and ruining a beautiful little group for their selfish needs. I spent over a year using different maps and software trying to find the secret trees and I’m glad I did before their inevitable destruction. I see why they are kept secret and bringing photo workshops there and earning money off their future destruction just rubs me the wrong way. So we left this temporary place probably for the last time and taking this shot from a distance as to not create more trampling. Its hypocritical in a way for me to visit them as well and I don’t have a viable solution to protect these trees other than to keep the secret in hopes others do as well and not bring large groups. Not everyone has the best intentions when visiting a popular site.
The delicate curve of a mutation creates a unique grove.
From there we wandered up the mountain pass on foot taking photos from the edge with our long lenses. The dense trees make for some peaceful atmosphere and the towering mountain beyond them became my favorite spot of the trip.
Clustered aspens stand in the sunlight.
Another sapling grows with its kin.
We spent about 45 minutes just shooting this majestic scene as the clouds and sun created a different look every few minutes or so. These mountains are what I miss when sitting here in the Northeast. While we do have some tall mountains, there’s nothing like a 14,000’ tall pointed mountain such as this. Feeling small and insignificant beneath this ancient giant is what I like to seek out on these trips. The reminder that my time here is short blip in comparison to these natural monuments helps put any problems that arise into perspective.
Peaking out from the clouds rises a most majestic peak.
After leaving behind the golden aspens, the towering snow capped peaks and deep canyons we made our way to the last leg of this trip. Seeing the landscape slowly change from alpine to more familiar scenes to flat open scrub lands produced a slight sadness in us as it became evident that our journey was nearing its end. Making a brief stop at a park known for its cliff side clay brick dwellings of past peoples and seeing wild horses roam the plains of the plateau we headed to the final spot of our adventure. The sand dunes of this area are an anomaly compared to scenes around it. Sitting at the base of last of the mountains are 750’ tall piles of natural sand that stick out like a sore thumb. Though they are indeed beautiful, they remain strange. Gently sloping down to the ground below they create waves and patterns like an ocean frozen in time. Not knowing where to begin I ended up not using a wide lens to capture their entirety but a zoom lens to create this cool toned image of the waves and small scrub bush living in them.
Blue toned sand waves are home to a small bush.
The next morning was our start to the long drive home. Passing by two male deer in a little battle on the roadside, I looked one last time in hopes of seeing the dunes in the absolute darkness to no avail. Thats when the sky lit up as it was almost daylight as a meteor blazed across the sky. I have never seen such an amazing sight before and it was a little scary. One moment it was black and the next it was as if a light switch turned on as the greenish white flash and ball of flame zipped past us. Lasting only a second and leaving a brief fiery trail in the atmosphere the last wonders of this tale was over. We stopped at some caves and some small mountains known for their “smoke”. I donated one of my shirts to a stray cat at our hotel to sleep on in his little house outside that the hotel built for him. Days passed as we got closer and closer to home. The cities and modern living grew more and more and gone were the western wilderness areas and isolation. We finally arrived home happy to see our cats but sad to be away from the mountain lion inhabited forests, the wondrous mountains and the peaceful silence. The memories we made were more than worth the rainy gloom and missed sunrises. And the time we shared together was worth more than any money can buy.
A mill sits hidden along a river.